Thursday started with a trip to the Bushmills distillery on the North Coast. I drove from Derry, leaving pretty early, so the coast was very foggy, and I figured what better way to pass the time waiting for the fog to burn off than by having 12-year-old whiskey at 11 in the morning? Plus, last time I was here I visited the Guinness Storehouse and the Jameson Distillery, so how could I miss Bushmills? I guess all that’s left is Bailey’s. I’m also surprised to find I rather liked the whiskey. Huh. Didn’t think I liked the really hard stuff, but after enjoying bourbon a few weeks ago and now this – maybe I’m growing up!

After that it was a very quick drive to Giant’s Causeway. Finn McCool (I think) is the giant that gives the geological site it’s name.  Google him for the story. It’s kind of entertaining. Anyway, there are some gorgeous cliffs there, and great hiking, but the coolest are these huge stones that kind of remind me of those oyster cracker they give out with soup. Anyway, they are pretty big, and just not what one would expect to find. I spent about an hour just walking around, then went on to the Carrick-a-rede rope bridge. Basically, it’s this 30-meter-high bridge the local fishermen put up each March and take down in the fall to get out to this little island which is right in the salmon migration path. The water was amazingly clear – I really wanted to try to go in, but there wasn’t really a good way to get to the beach. It reminded me a bit like Vieques, or even Lake Tahoe on a really good day. I took loads of pictures, so you’ll get to see.

I got back into Belfast around 4, returned the car, and relaxed. This morning, up early again to catch the train to Dublin, where I’ve been exploring for the past few hours. Vanessa is about to meet me, and then we head to a suburb where a party is being held for one of her friends. A perfect way to end a fabulous trip! Back in NYC by afternoon tomorrow . . . looking forward to my own bed.

That Beyonce song has been in my head all morning, as I, for the first time, drove on the left side of the road, in a car with the steering wheel on the right side. I am still alive.

Last night in Belfast I wandered the Botanic Gardens next to Queen’s university. They aren’t large, but they are lovely. There is a great lawn, where I sat for awhile to finish the book on the 1981 Hunger Strike. It was really peaceful until a few kids (well, teens) showed up to play, very loudly. I quickly left and discovered the rose garden, which again, was not overdone or huge, but simple and effective. I looped through it for a good 20 minutes, just looking at each different variety, and got some really great photos.  There was a couple with three tiny terriers on the outside of the garden – every time I looped by, the dogs went NUTS and starting chasing me and barking. But they were the size of hamsters, so it was kind of hilarious.

This morning I picked up my VW Golf and managed to get all the way from Belfast to Derry without getting lost, and without crashing. I even found the B&B where I’m staying, AND a parking spot in a non-limited zone without getting lost. It was marvelous.  The B&B is really cute, and the bathrooms are en suite – a term I don’t hear often in the US, since I think in most places I’ve stayed every room has a bathroom. Anyway, it’s a nice surprise at a B&B to have my very own toilet and shower. The owner is nice and gave me a map and outlined places I should see, and even recommended places to get dinner tonight and listen to music.

It’s a beautiful, sunny day (about 22 C, which is mid 70s F, I think), and I set right out to see Rossville Road, where the Bloody Sunday murders took place. By saying “murders” (and referring to Derry, and not Londonderry – lots of the signs here had the London part painted over), I’m identifying with the republicans. I went over to the road and visited the newly-opened Free Derry Civil Rights museum. I believe it is run by family members of the 13 who died on January 30, 1972, or at least I believe that now, as after I paid the fee, the gentleman told me about what I would be seeing, and ended by letting me know he is the brother of Michael Kelly, one of the 13 who was killed that day (he was only 17). That made it even more real. 

Throughout the museum are placards explaining the history of the Bogside, an area where the Catholics were forced to live, and the gerrymandering of districts that resulted in the loyalists being very over-represented in the government. The Civil Rights movement for Catholics here gained steam around the same time as the US Civil Right movement, and it was pretty violent. The museum had a great interactive section with audio and video, including images of protest posters, overhead film of the march that day, and songs written about it. Equally disturbing is the fact that they have the “soundtrack” playing throughout the museum. It’s a compilation of the sounds of that day – people screaming, gun shots, people yelling. It was really overwhelming. Also, my timing is interesting – the results of the new Bloody Sunday commission (the first one was a joke) are due soon, and there have been some controversial comments in the news about it.

After that I was a bit drained, so I went out to see the murals in the area (I’ve taken so many pictures between here and Belfast of murals alone that I might have to do a separate book of just them). I then walked the city walls (it’s the last walled city in Ireland), got lunch at a cafe and finally stamped the last of the postcards (friends in Seattle and San Francisco – they are on their way!). I’m off to explore more of the city now. Tomorrow I’ll drive along the coast to Giant’s Causeway and the rope bridge (which I KNOW my dad would hate, given my memory of a similar bridge in Vancouver, Canada), then back down to Belfast. Friday I go back to Dublin to see Vanessa again, and we’re going out to a party that evening, which will be a great way to end the trip.

I have had so much fun. I know it’s not over yet, but I am getting more reflective about this. Traveling alone these past couple of days has been interesting – I’m so glad I had Allegra and John and Richard and Vanessa the first ten days or so, but I’ve also enjoyed having time to myself. I think I’ll come back to NYC refreshed and ready to enjoy the summer. I’m not bummed it’s ending – I’m just so thankful that it happened at all!

Belfast is lovely today. Coolish but not cold, and overcast but not raining. My hotel is great – kind of hip (with a large bar downstairs) but not over the top. And in a great location. Last night I wandered out to the university section for dinner.

This morning up a bit later than normal (8 am), and then off to explore. At Paula’s suggestion, I visited the linen hall library. They have a huge section devoted to northern Ireland political history. I found it appropriate to spend some time there reading my book “Ten Men Dead”, about the 1981 hunger strike. Paula, if you’re reading this, I also tried to visit Ruby Tuesday’s, but alas it has been replaced by another restaurant.

After that it was off to City Hall for a tour – we happened to be there when the Mayor-elect was coming in, so he said a quick hello to us. He was just elected mayor last night. He’s the first Lord Mayor to be elected to a second term since they instituted the new rules.  The Lord Mayor is elected by the councilors, who are elected by the people, and they serve just one year as Lord Mayor (4 years as councilors), and cannot run in consecutive terms. The building itself is really ornate and gorgeous – it was damaged severely during the blitz in WWII, but only the great hall (the dome was unscathed). It’s a really cool building.

I then caught the bus tour around town – I did that last time, but this time I knew a bit more about what I was seeing, AND it made the trip out to Stormont, the Northern Ireland parliament building. That’s been in the news as of late – it was shut for a few years, but now a power sharing agreement has been reached, so I believe it will reopen soon. It’s also a good way to see the Falls Road and Shankhill road areas, which have the famous murals and the massive peace wall.

Late this afternoon I did my part to help the Belfast economy. Now it’s back to the hotel for a rest before I venture out to explore the botanic gardens in the evening. Tomorrow, on to Derry, where I will make my first attempt at driving on the left side of the road.  Wish me luck!

Hello from Connelly station in Dublin. I’m waiting for my train to Belfast, and stumbled upon internet access.

My evening in Galway City turned out a fair bit better than my last post suggested. After I went back to the hostel, I met some folks (American, Scottish and Australian), and we went to visit a few of the pubs playing more traditional music, so that was quite nice.  However, back at the hostel, it was still less than desirable. I fell asleep around 2 AM, and was up at 5:30. Ah, well, it wasn’t so bad, and I only spent one night there.

Sunday was just glorious. Although it was raining in Galway, it was clear and warm in Inis Mor. After arriving around 11:30, I checked into the most charming B & B, and was off to explore. The island only has about 800 residents, and is 2 miles wide by 6 miles long. The big news – they got an ATM this year. But it isn’t really the land that time forgot – it’s more like the land that time took care of. The people are quite friendly, and there’s enough space to spread out in so that even though throngs of tourists take it over, I still managed to find many peaceful spots.

As suggested by all, I rented a bike. I made it part-way to the fort on the cliffs, but was so exhausted I turned back, and managed to get somewhat lost on an island of only about three roads. But the best moment – as I rode on a very hilly and unpaved road, the back wheel of the bike went one way, the front another, and I a third. I was fortunate not to brain myself on one of the delightful stone walls; no, my fall was broken by a thorn bush. It was right out of a sitcom. I stood up with not even my pride injured (no one was around to see), but my knees, arms and hands have definitely looked better. Ah, well, had to get back on the bike – how else was I going to find my way home?

After I turned in the bike, I got some lunch, then walked. And shopped at the couple of local crafts shops. Then back to the B & B to clean up (it looks much worse than it is, but the innkeeper was a bit taken aback) before another very long walk in the evening. I spent a good hour just sitting on the rocks watching and listening to the tide roll in. It was unreal. Then I stopped into a pub where a family was singing traditional music – the whole family (except a very bored-looking father) was singing and playing instruments. It was mostly locals, too, so that was a great experience.

Up at 6:30 this morning to get the ferry and bus back to Galway, then three hours on a train to Dublin. Only three hours left to travel, and then I’ll be in Belfast until Wednesday. I’m excited to sleep in the same place for two nights.

Travel day. I’m beat, I have to say. Up at 6 to get to the airport for the flight to Dublin, then a couple of hours in Dublin, then a train across the country to Galway City, which frankly is a bit drunk at the moment for my tastes. And sadly I can’t seem to find the pub I so loved last time. Ah, well, all can’t be perfect, I suppose. If this is the worst of it, then that’s just fine. The train ride was lovely, though – the countryside was just gorgeous. It’s been misty most of the day, and at times there was fog rising right up from the fields.

Now I’m killing time at an internet cafe until it gets dark (it’s already past 10 PM, but I just can’t bring myself to go to bed when it’s light out). Also, I’m in a “mixed” room, so there are men and women in it – and my roommates are some men who are about 50. Perhaps this will be a time to stay up all night to catch up on my reading . . .

Tomorrow I’m off to the Aran Islands, and I can’t wait. Hope all is well stateside and beyond.