ASK Musings

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Adventures Archive

Monday

6

October 2014

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New Orleans Day 4 – Rollin’ On the River

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Today was a busy day in the quarter. We got up and grabbed a quick slice (our first – and likely only – foray into one of the many Pizza + Daquiri joints on Bourbon Street) then caught a shuttle to Mardi Gras world. It’s one of the five companies that does props and floats for the two-week Mardi Gras celebrations for which New Orleans is famous. We ate King Cake (so good!) and learned some interesting facts. Like everyone on the floats pays to be a member of the krewe, and that each float costs $50,000-$80,000 up front, and then $5,000 t0 $15,000 each year to refurbish it. Or that the krewe members have to buy their own ‘throws’ (beads and other things they toss from the floats).

Afterwards we caught a ride on the Steamboat Natchez, which was pretty awesome. It gave some perspective about how the city really is below the river, and also showed us the ports along the way. It was a nice, relaxing way to see more than just the French Quarter.

For dinner we finally visited Frenchmen street. I was in charge of picking the restaurant, and it was (of course) our first ‘meh’ meal experience of the trip. But it was still good, because we got to enjoy some jazz during the meal. Then we wandered the street and caught an art fair and two fantastic bands playing on street corners. This is a Monday, and it’s still more lively than Seattle most nights of the week. It was amazing, and it will be hard to leave this place. Especially because of our last stop of the night – an dessert visit to Cafe du Monde for one more round of beignets.

Sunday

5

October 2014

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New Orleans Day 3 – So Much Deliciousness

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Today was a wandering day. We managed to get brunch at this fairly small place called Cafe Soule. Really great Louisiana / French food. So good. We explored the French Quarter a bit more, then found a very cute dress shop. Damage was done. Next up was Carousel Bar, where I got to taste a Ramos Gin Fizz (sorry bartender). It was pretty good, although too flowery for my palate.

Dinner was the highlight of the day. We ate at Commander’s Palace, which is known for being just fantastic. And it was. It was a leisurely dinner with fantastic service, great drinks and even better food. It’s a huge place and clearly the kind of restaurant where people go to celebrate anniversaries and such. Afterwards we wandered our neighborhood some more, stopping for a drink by Jackson Square, then popping into a jazz club for a couple of sets. Sunday night, 11 P.M. and it felt like a Saturday night at 10 P.M. anywhere else. Apparently they have to close Bourbon Street to traffic every single night. Fascinating.

We have nearly two full days left, and we have a lot on the schedule. A couple of museums and a steamboat ride are in our future

Saturday

4

October 2014

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New Orleans Day 2 – 10 Miles and Many Beignets

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It’s easy to be lazy here. It isn’t so hot at this time of year (thankfully) that we can’t move, but the place we’re staying is comfortable, so there was no need to race out the door. But once we were out, we were ready to take on the day. First up was Cafe du Monde for beignets. Delicious fried bits of heaven covered in tons of powdered sugar. They are open 24/7, so we might have to visit later one of these nights. You basically stand in a line (that moved surprisingly quickly), grab a table, they come and clear out the dishes before you and you order. The only options are beignets and either chickory coffee, black coffee, OJ or cocoa. So they can churn this stuff out pretty quickly. They deliver the food, you pay right then (cash only) and then start down the road towards a sugar coma. They are delicious.

We walked over to the St. Charles Avenue Streetcar after and hopped on for a very nice ride to the park. Then we turned right around to walk back. The homes on that street are ridiculous. Just ginormous, with huge porches and manicured landscaping. The sidewalks are not well-kept, however; we have running assumption that one of us will twist an ankle by the weekend’s end. But the walk was gorgeous and it was nice to be out in the world. After a break to rest we went out to a brewery and then dinner at Cafe Giovanni, a delicious Italian spot.

I’m really enjoying this city. The architecture is gorgeous and its so easy to walk around and just get lost. Also, the drinks are delicious 🙂

Friday

3

October 2014

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New Orleans Day 1 – Not What I Expected

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Because of the work I’ve done for the past eight years or so, I (sadly) associate New Orleans with Hurricane Katrina. I’ve read three books about New Orleans this year; one was a guidebook (which is being very helpful I must say) and two were about the hurricane (Five Days at Memorial and Zeitoun). I know there is so much more history here, but in my mind when I saw that dome as we drove in from the airport I didn’t think about the Saints, I thought about people needing to be evacuated.

But I’m getting past that. We arrived and made it to our rental quickly, and it is lovely. It’s a small self-contained apartment with a kitchen and sitting area downstairs and two bedrooms and a bathroom upstairs. It’s got just enough furnishing to feel comfortable but not so much that it feels like someone else’s house. We were 50/50 on the Air BnB thing before this trip; now we’re 2 out of 3 in the plus column, so that’s good. We’re set far back from the street just a block from Bourbon Street, and that’s fantastic, as we have this great courtyard along with two sweet cats who look like they’ve been beat up on the streets. Seriously, ugliest cats I’ve ever seen in person. But still SO SWEET.

Bourbon Street is narrower than I imagined, but just as raunchy as I expected. Even more so, actually. There’s the Hustler Club, the Penthouse Club, and something featuring ‘barely legal’ dancers which, I have to say, should not be appealing. What is their tag line – feel like a pedo without that nasty lingering fear of arrest? Yikes. It also seems that every other storefront is a daquiry/pizza joint. That exact combination is repeated throughout the street. Odd.

The rest of the French Quarter so far seems pretty awesome. We found a bar (21st Amendment) that had this little room we managed to commandeer. It felt like where the head mobster would meet and grant favors to his men. The drinks were delicious, and the bartender recommended a restaurant nearby to try out. St. Lawrence had very tasty food and a good drink selection. I couldn’t finish mine, but that’s okay, because you just ask for a to-go cup and they pour it into one for you to take away. Wow.

We wandered the streets a bit then found Fritzel’s, which was featuring a really great brass band. Fantastic jazz – the kind I really like, that sounds almost like a big band but not quite. They also had a bumper sticker that I must find:

“New Orleans: We Put the Fun in Funeral”

Monday

7

July 2014

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COMMENTS

Alaska By Cruise Ship

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Two Stars

ABCS

I’m going on a cruise to Alaska this summer to celebrate my dad’s 70th birthday, and I’m pretty excited. I’ve never been north of Vancouver on the West Coast, so I thought I’d pick up a book to learn what I should check out when I’m in the various ports. I’ve been on a cruise before, so I generally know what to expect on that front – I just wanted some information on locations and maybe a little history.

This book is fine. I don’t think a lot of editorial effort went into it – there’s at least one pretty obvious error that shouldn’t have escaped anyone’s eye, really – but there’s a lot of information, and some history. In fact, there was probably more history than your average travel book, so I appreciate that. However, I’m a bit suspect about the accuracy. It’s not just the aforementioned typo; that can happen if you don’t have a great editor, or even if you do, mistakes still get made.

However, it’s not just typos. Because many Alaska cruises start and/or end in Seattle, there’s a nice section on my home city. Even though I live here, I still read that section, and it was full of errors that would have been avoided with some basic fact-checking (i.e. Googling). I know information can become out of date quickly in the travel guide world, but considering this edition of the book came out in March of this year, I expect it to be fairly accurate. Some things I take issue with might just be a matter of interpretation – the author claims the north cruise ship dock is 20 minutes from downtown, which, I guess, if traffic is moving at 5 miles per hour, that MIGHT be the case. But it’s literally four miles from the heart of downtown – I know because I used to go for runs from the middle of downtown up to there and back. But like I said, maybe she just wanted to cover her rear so people allow enough time. Okay.

But Ms. Vipond also talks about buses in the downtown Seattle corridor being free between 6 AM and 7 PM, but they got rid of the ride-free zone in September of 2012 – not exactly close to the deadline for this edition. And the IMAX Dome theatre she mentions closed well before that – I want to say in 2007? Even the name of our football stadium, which changed a couple of years ago (and got a lot of press this last year, what with the Seahawks winning the Super Bowl) is incorrect. She does point out a relatively new attraction – a Ferris wheel on the waterfront – so clearly she did some research. The point of me going into such detail is because knowing all of those errors in just five or six pages makes me really question whether any of the information in the rest of the book can still be considered accurate.

If you happen to be going on a cruise this summer and want some basic background on the ports of call, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with picking up this guide. I just can’t vouch for accuracy.

Saturday

19

April 2014

0

COMMENTS

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide to New Orleans by Marilyn Wood

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Three Stars

DK New Orleans

First off, I fully recognize that this review would probably be best saved for AFTER I visit the city for which I purchased it. However, that trip is over five months away, so I don’t know if I’d really remember much at that point. If anything in the book has led me wildly astray, however, I’ll come back and update my review.

In my experience of the travel book world, there are a few big players, which I usually envision this way: Rick Steves (a.k.a. what your parents use); Fodor’s and Frommer’s (the sort of generic middle of the road); Lonely Planet (for the SLIGHTLY less mainstream traveler), and Eyewitness (for the person who likes shiny things and detailed maps). I know there are others; these are just the ones I have found to be the ones usually in stock at a bookstore. In looking at my husband’s and my travel bookshelf, we have 10 Lonely Planet guides and three Eyewitness Travel.

(more…)

Wednesday

17

July 2013

0

COMMENTS

What I Learned on My Honeymoon

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DSCN2951

Austin and I just got back from spending two weeks traveling across Scotland and Ireland. It was fun, relaxing, interesting, stressful and tiring. Some observations.

1. When I’m in the UK and Ireland there are only two types of alcohol I want: Cider and Whisk(e)y, primarily of the Bulmers/Magners and speyside/Jameson varieties.

2. Scotland and Ireland start to melt around 82 degrees, and shift into a circle of hell around 88 degrees. When that happens, I average three showers per day and become a decidedly un-sunny person.

3. It doesn’t matter how lovely the scenery or wonderful the company; if it’s 90 degrees in my room at 12:30 A.M. I’m going to be miserable. I recognize that makes me a wimp, and possibly a bratty one. I’m not okay with that, but couldn’t figure out how to just ‘get over’ melting into a puddle.

4. The Isle of Skye is gorgeous and I could spend another week there exploring.

5. There’s really no need to visit Inverness.

6. Edinburgh is gorgeous in the summer, when it is light from 5 A.M. until 11 P.M. I can also imagine it being dark and gloomy in the winter and still awesome because of all the cool architecture.

7. By settling down and just picking one major thing to do each day, I was able to relax more and enjoy myself more. I’m not going to be able to see or do everything I want, and trying to takes me away from relaxation and over to stress.

8. I still love Ireland more than most places I’ve been, but I feel okay about not going back for a few years. There’s more to see.

9. There really is nothing like seeing old friends. Ben/Bonnie, Kate/Richard, Vanessa/Diarmuid: it was WONDERFUL to see you and catch up. You are welcome in our home any time.

10. My husband is awesome. After 16 days of near non-stop togetherness, five flights and about 24 hours of road tripping, we only came close to fighting once. Freakin’ sat nav taking us to the train station instead of the train station parking lot.

Next stop: NYC in October!

Monday

25

June 2012

0

COMMENTS

Kind Folks

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This morning Austin and I went for a run. About three miles in (with a mile
to go), I tripped. Now I average about one stumble every three or four
months; I run on sidewalks and the ones in my neighborhood are in disrepair.
But this time I ate it hard. Thankfully my hands were fine, as was my right
knee. But oh man, my left knee. Not broken or anything like that, but
really, really ugly. Austin asked if he should run home and get the car;
like an idiot I initially said nah, I can finish the run. Ha!

I got up with some help, and it was not a good look. Austin waved down a
parks department employee to get some tissue, and I attempted to clean
myself up while Austin ran home (literally) to get the car. I slowly limped
towards home at the same time, and two different times women pulled over in
their cars to make sure I was okay and didn’t need any help. I thought that
was extremely kind – one even said “I’ve had that happen before and wanted
to make sure you were okay.” Ah, shared embarrassment. Always good for
bringing people together.

Then right as Austin pulled up another woman, this time out walking,
approached me to see if I was okay. I said I was fine and then she said she
was a nurse at the nearby hospital. She gave me a couple of tips on cleaning
the wound, then pulled some alcohol pads out of her backpack. So nice and
helpful! Especially as I had just been thinking about how we don’t have any
alcohol in the house to clean this out.

My knee is sore and is going to look nasty for a while, but I feel good
knowing that some of my fellow Capitol Hillers are so kind.

Monday

28

November 2011

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COMMENTS

Europe in November

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It’s 11PM in Seattle. I’ve been up since about 6:30, having gotten about five or six hours sleep last night, after being up for 26 hours the day before as we made our way from Munich to London, London to Chicago and finally Chicago to Seattle. It was an awesome, wonderful trip, although it is so nice to be home to enjoy this month of holiday festivities.

London was a bit quick – we were only there for three nights, and we spent much of that time seeing my friends. It was fantastic (as always) to spend time with Kate and Richard, and to get to have a bar night with my LSE friends. People are doing really interesting things – working in a jobs that they may or may not have seen themselves working when they were at University. Even though there are occasional Facebook status updates, chats, or even the occasional transatlantic phone call, it’s just so much better to have real conversations in person.

Austin and I spent time strolling the city, but we didn’t do many tourist-type activities. The trip was too short though, but I know we’ll be back.. As long as I have friends living there, I’ll visit as much as I can. It’s rough that it’s so far away though, especially now that I’m in Seattle as opposed to NYC.

After London we took the Eurostar down to Paris and stayed in the second arrondissement. The hotel was mostly great – when we couldn’t sleep because of noise from a bar (not the hotel’s), they moved us to a nicer room a few floors up. We did a lot of walking (a LOT of walking), so it was great to be able to come back to the hotel and relax in a good room before heading out again in the evening,
It was lovely to have a big chunk of time in Paris; we were there for six full days and nights. That meant that we didn’t have to shove a bunch of things into a day, and could enjoy the city and go on adventures. We went to the Musee D’Orsay one day, the Louvre another. We took our time, enjoying long meals and for the most part not racing around. Other than some pretty standard travel-related stress, it was such a relaxing time. And the city is just so gorgeous, that even when I found myself fretting over travel plans or concerned about why my credit card didn’t work somewhere, I was able to just look around and enjoy the scenery. Plus, the fact that I was there with Austin made it that much more fun.

The food in Paris was great, as expected. Most evenings we’d stay pretty close to the hotel, as there were tons of options available. I was excited to be able to have champagne at every meal; Austin sampled many different red wines throughout the week. I tried macaroons where I could, and thoroughly enjoyed the Laduree ones, which are alleged to be the best in Paris. The lemon ones there are amazing, and I would eat oh so many more if I could get ones like that here in Seattle. I was able to enjoy a few baguettes with ham and cheese, which just taste better over there. But with all the walking we did every day, I rationalized that I needed the fuel.

One of the coolest things we did on the trip – or anywhere else, frankly – was a private tour at Moet Chandon in Eperney, about 90 minutes outside of Paris. They make Dom Perignon champagne, and we were able to get the private tour thanks to someone Austin knows. I learned so much about how champagne is made (did you know there’s a group that decides what percentage of the grapes in the region can be harvested each year, to ensure low supply?), and saw tons of bottles in various stages of the aging process. Afterwords we got a private tasting of the 2002 vintage. Oh man, was it good. So, so good.

We made sure we had plenty of down time, and during that time one thing I did notice was how much I value good information. We would watch one of the three or four English-language channels on TV and Al Jazeera English’s news coverage was consistently excellent. During the ridiculous raid of the Occupy Wall Street camps (Bloomberg, what were you thinking?) Al Jazeera had regular updates and video footage; it was hours before CNN International even picked up the story. Stories on other stations were also so much more in-depth than what I feel I see here. It’s unfortunate, but will at the very least get me watching Al Jazeera English online regularly when I’m interested in getting more about a story.

After our week in Paris we took an overnight train to Germany. That was an adventure for sure. The cabins on the trains are fascinating from an engineering and design perspective – two bunks (a third can be pulled down if needed), the bottom of which converts in to seats. A tabletop stored on the wall that you pull off and attach to a couple of recessed spaces on the wall. A corner unit with doors that open up to a mirror, sink, and towels. A lock and key so you can leave to use the restroom (or the shower!). Neither of us slept well at all, but it was such a fun experience. Travel and hotel all in one!

We arrived in Munich super early, but luckily our hotel room was ready! After a nap we explored the town. I’d visited with choir the summer after high school but could really only remember bits and pieces. The highlight was the Deutches museum, which is basically is a massive science, industry and engineering museum. It was fantastic – we spent four hours there and if we hadn’t been tired could probably spent a couple more. We also went (twice) to the Hofbrauhaus, and I discovered I could actually enjoy sausages and sauerkraut.

Because the holidays are near, the Munich Christmas markets were just getting started, which was a nice bonus for someone like me. Plus it meant we could get such traditional Bavarian fare as … burritos. As an fYI, German burritos, not so bad, actually!

Overall the trip was wonderful and left me relaxed and happy. It was a long time to be away from home and work, but I think it was just the right length – we were ready to come home but not dying to leave, and not sad about leaving either. I had a wonderful time and feel so fortunate to be able to do these types of things, especially with someone as easy to travel with as Austin.
I am, however, happy to not be going to an airport again for a month.

Monday

18

July 2011

1

COMMENTS

Comment ça va?

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I am learning French.
 
I can remember a time, probably when I was in high school, when I had no desire to ever go to France. I thought Italy, Spain and Ireland were the places I wanted to be, and I couldn't really understand why people would ever go to France. I bought into the stereotype of French snobbery, I thought the food sounded disgusting (escargot? frog legs?), and I figured I wouldn't be able to communicate because the French hated to speak English.
 
In 2009 I went to visit Kate and Richard and decided I should really go see Paris. It was just a train ride away, and I wanted to see a new country. I was sold within minutes of stepping outside of the Metro. I knew two days would not be enough.
 
Once I moved to London I visited Paris three more times – once for my 30th birthday, once for a half marathon, and once for Bastille Day. Each time I visited favorite locations and discovered new places. And each time I travelled with people who were either fluent in or had at least passing knowledge of French. It was fantastic, and although not necessary (as I found quickly that if I simply asked in French if someone spoke English, they were usually fluent and quite happy to converse in my native tongue), seemed very, very cool.
 
This fall I'll be returning to Paris (and hopefully visiting areas of France that are new to me), this time with Austin, who has about the same level of French knowledge as I: namely, a couple of verses from pop songs, and some food vocabulary (cafe au lait! croissant! escargot!).
 
So, a decision was made: to try to learn some French. Austin did the research, and found Fluenz, this fantastic language software. It's great for many reasons, and in my experience is much better than Rosetta Stone. You actually need to practice pronunciation, and sentence construction, and spelling. Exercises include typing what you hear, typing in French what you read in English, and matching French phrases to their English translations. Each lesson is about 60-90 minutes, and includes one basic conversation, 10 minutes of explanation, and another 45-60 minutes of exercises. The software can be installed on multiple computers, so I have it on my laptop and Austin has it on his computer, meaning we can complete lessons together or on our own. There's also an accompanying CD, which I hope to start listening to soon.
 
The plan is to complete levels one and two before we leave for our trip. We have to complete two lessons a week to do that, and I think we can manage it. We've completed five lessons, and so far I feel comfortable ordering food and drink, exchanging pleasantries, saying I don't want something, and working with the verbs 'to want' and 'to be'. It's really encouraging. I can't believe I might actually be able to learn a new language!